Rwandan Shadows

KIGALI, Rwanda—During my travels in Rwanda over the past week, my guide Hyppolite has become a friend. He's a sharp-minded 27-year-old with an engaging smile who bombards me with questions about everything from smart cards to China's rise. This fall he's starting work on a master's degree at a British university -- not bad for someone who remembers spending much of his childhood gathering firewood for the family cooking stove.